Philippines: good friends, crazy party beach and gentle giants
Wow, three weeks Philippines are already over again. Time just flew by! As I'm that behind I'll just make one big blog about it. Enjoy :-)
Week 1: Manila, Legaspi and Donsol
Well, how did it start? Ah yes, I arrived in Manila to see my good friend Ronnie again. He's the second good friend who left the Netherlands last summer and who made it on my visiting list. I wasn't too excited about Manila itself, as I had already been there just three years ago. From the airport I made my way straight to Ronnie's place and waited at the bar for him. After a welcome drink we decided on the next few hours: I brought my laundry to the shop downstairs and then we left for the city. Ronnie had tickets to the Goo Goo Dolls concert and took me with him. As traffic in Manila is as bad as nearly nowhere else, it took us a bit to get there. Until we had finally managed to have our tickets in the hands and know where we need to go, we had very few time left for dinner. We chose a Japanese place as I was craving for Edamame - which they didn't have in the end. Well, it was good food for sharing anyways and soon after we were on the way to the concert. The place was not as big as I had expected, but with a great history: 1975 it was the place of the famous 'thriller in Manila' boxing fight. Now there was no boxing ring, but a stage and (for the first time) good Internet. I had forgotten how bad the Philippines are with Internet.
Anyways, despite me knowing only one song from the goo goo dolls (yes, Iris) I really enjoyed the concert. It's been a while since I've been to a big life music event! The only a bit strange thing: it was all seating area, even all the way to the front. This was definitely a great start to my time in the Philippines. Unfortunately all the traveling had gotten to me, so we went back home soon after the concert.
The next day was a typical day in Manila: shopping in a mall, being stuck in traffic and getting a massage (in this case with home service, so directly at Ronnie's apartment). And most important: make a decision what to do next week. As Ronnie had to work during the week and I'm not a big fan of Manila, I wanted to go explore southern Luzon a bit. I had to be back on Friday as Timo, my old study friend who lives in Brunei, was flying over. Timo had planned a week trip to the Philippines with 2 colleagues and I had decided to join them. So what to do with 5 days around Manila? I had heard that Mount Mayon and Donsol are nice places to visit, just one night bus away. With little more information than that (something about perfect cone volcano and good diving with sharks) I made my decision. So Sunday night after dinner Ronnie brought me to the bus station for my first night bus again, wohoo.
I booked the luxury bus, which turned out to be a very good decision. Finally good Internet and spacious and comfy seats. The only annoyance was the freezing temperatures, but I came prepared. The next morning I arrived in Legazpi not too exhausted - at least not like the other two people in my dorm who hadn't slept at all and started the day with a nap. I chatted with some other travellers and walked around the city for a bit. I tried to find some info about hiking Mount Mayon, a beautiful perfect cone volcano, which is on the cover of the current Philippines Lonely Planet. It wasn't very easy. Some said you can only go up 800m to camp one due to an eruption end of last year. Some said it is possible to go to camp 2 at 1800m. A crazy unofficial guide even wanted to take me to the top, showing me a video of an enthousiast client standing on top, in the middle of sulfur smoke. No thank you.
Back at the hostel the guys in my dorm were awake and with one of them, Ron, I went to the Cagsawa ruins. These ruins are an old village which had been destroyed by a volcano eruption and only some walls and parts of the church tower still stand. Here also all tourist guides try to get the tourists for vulcano activities. We had decided that we don't want to do the half legal camp 2, and only hike the 1-2 hours to camp 1 didn't seem too exciting either. So we decided to give the number one tourist activity there a chance: we booked an ATV tour up the black lava trail to camp 1 for 6:30 the next morning. From there Ron and I went separate ways, but both towards the lion hill in the city, which is meant to have a great sunset view right on the coast. Unfortunately I missed sunset as the lady in the mobile phone store messed it up and it took me ages to get my sim card. I met up with Ron and we went for a quick dinner as we had to get up early the next morning.
At 6am we had a quick breakfast (rice, eggs and fish...) and then got picked up by our ATV guy. The tour was quite cool, me and Ron got our private guide, Dimple, and the track was completely empty this early in the day. The way to the volcano was for me mainly getting used to the ATV, while we were driving over rocks and through the water. Dimple had my phone and made more than a hundred pictures of us on the way. We were treated with the best views we had of the vulvano since we arrived, meaning it was only partially covered in clouds.
At the end we had to walk the last metres by foot, had a quick photo session and then took the zip line back down to the ATVs. Not the most amazing one, but a good one for a first zip line with good views back on the city and the sea.
The way back I actually enjoyed the ATV ride through river beds and sand banks.
Next we got our backpacks and went to the bus terminal. The ride to Donsol is only 1.5 hours but if you don't want to pay 30 euros for a private van, you need to wait for all 15 spots in the public one being filled. We waited about an hour, met two nice Dutch guys and were on our way. For 2 euro per person we made it to Donsol, where we were dropped at our hostel a bit out of town. I've been told that the Woodland Beach Resort is a great place, I think some travellers had even called it the best hostel ever. And I wasn't disappointed. For only 8-9 euros you get a triple room with decent beds and a private bathroom with hot water (which is more than I can say about Ronnie's place :-P). And the best part: a great pool and bar/restaurant at a lonely beach. A backpackers heaven!
The hostel was also hooking us up with the main activities there: snorkeling with the whalesharks and diving at manta bowl. So when I had been told about this place I had only heard something about sharks and even said: "I've been swimming with sharks before, not so excited about that". Well, in Donsol I realised quickly what kind of fish we are talking about and fully got sucked up in the excitement. Most people there had only come to swim with the whalesharks, some even chose the Philippines just because of that. There is one more place in the Philippines where you can see them, on Cebu island. But it is a different experience as they are fed there. The disadvantage of not feeding: there is a chance you will not see them. And that was already the case for 3 days when we arrived, due to bad weather. We met people who had gone out with a boat for 4 hours already the third time. You could see the disappointment, it made me want it so much more.
For the evening Ron and I joined another favorite Donsol activity: firefly watching. You take a tricycle to a river and then a boat. After 10 minutes we saw them. It was quite cool to see the trees full of fireflies. We went to a tree with no other boat and just enjoyed the spectacle. We quickly learned that clapping your hands gets them excited and they get even brighter. Big fun.
The next morning at 11 Ron, me, the two Dutch guys and two more from the van got onto our whaleshark watching boat. The first early morning boats came already back again and we saw the disappointment. We still were sure that we would be lucky, chances say that at one point there needs to be a sighting. Well, it was a nice boat ride, in the beginning nice sunny as well. With time going by and the sun leaving us, our hope decreased more and more. After 4 hours we gave up, but I was deeply impressed by the crew. Usually the trip is only three hours but for full four hours they gave their everything. Three of them climbed up the bamboo sticks of the boat and for hours stare on the water. No hats or sunglasses. Just looking for shades in the water or maybe even a little fin. But nothing for us. I had a nice afternoon at the hostel, swimming in the sea and the pool, good food at the bar and fun card games in the evening. Unfortunately I also met again the weird Swedish guy from my hostel in Legazpi, who turned out to be the first asshole, that I met during my travels. Luckily there were some really nice people as well, so most of the time I could just ignore him.
The next morning I started with listening to music on the beach. The two Dutch guys were again on a whaleshark spotting trip as one of them had to leave at noon. I had planned to go in the afternoon, but when they came back unsuccessful again I decided to rather join two people on a motorbike trip to the waterfalls. The girl had managed to negotiate a good deal, where three of the tricycle guys would get their motorbikes and bring us to the falls. It was a beautiful ride through the hills. The first stop was a viewing point up one of the hills. It was a great view over banana tree hills and in the background Mount Mayon in the clouds.
And then the waterfalls. It was a pretty cool place. We booked a float trip on the underground river and until it was our turn we took some pictures and swam in the pool. The British guy was crazy enough to make a double back flip from the highest point. I was already proud of just jumping from the middle point which was in by opinion still a good 5-6 meters.
The float through the cave was cool, they say it's a smaller version of the underground river on Palawan. After some more swimming we were ready for the way back, all of us still amazed by the beauty of this place. Back at the hostel it heard that there were whaleshark sightings this afternoon. It was difficult to regret as I had a really great day. Just that little "but" in the back of my head.
Unfortunately that was my last chance as I had to make it back to Manila to meet with Ronnie and Timo for the weekend. This time I had booked a flight. Friday morning all went smooth, tricycle to the minivan terminal, I got the last seat and the van left basically immediately. The Legazpi airport is pretty small and easy and with good internet :-) The security check is very easy, I could take my water in as long as I promised to drink it before boarding ;-)
Week 2: Manila, Coron and Boracay White Beach
Back in Manila I was meeting Ronnie again in the mall. Without planning we ended up spending a couple hours there again and had dinner there. Scarily I was starting to get accustomed to the craziness of Greenbelt 1-5, Rustan's... mall. After the standard Manila traffic craziness we met Timo at Ronnie's place. As it was already quite late we had a couple of drinks at home and then went to bed.
The next day we started off to explore Manila. As all of us had already done the standard tourist program, we skipped Intramuros and other tourist favourites. We started the day with lunch in Chinatown. We extended it a bit as it started to rain heavily. After a while we gave up and surrendered ourselves again to the traffic. Next stop was at an artsy street market. It was a cool place with a micro brewery next to it. The beer was so so, but we still had a good time there. After the drinks we went back into the traffic. Unfortunately the rooftop bar which we wanted to go to was closed, although it had stopped to rain. Luckily we were able to enjoy the view from the restaurant a level deeper. After a snack in the same building we got yet another car to go back to Ronnie's apartment. I'm really over driving in Manila! Due to the traffic we just missed the sunset, which we wanted to watch on the rooftop. Went up with a beer anyways and enjoyed the great view of Manila at night for a bit. Later we went out for dinner in a sports bar with some over enthousiast English football viewers. After dinner we went for some drinks and I have to say I really liked the area. If I hadn't been that tired it would have been a great area to party. As we were all a bit tired we had only one or two drinks and then went back home. I was looking forward to sleeping, but the boys had other plans. So I fought through a full hour of game of thrones. Nice to watch it again, but I was really struggling to keep my eyes open!
The next day it was already time to say goodbye again as Timo and I were heading to the island Coron next. I left my big backpack at Ronnie's place and enjoyed traveling the week again only with my small bag. Sunday was more or less a travel day, everything went smooth but with everything together you are a lot in different modes of transport. When I arrived in Coron city I wasn't too sure what to think. It didn't look particularly nice, a big mess of houses (dive shops, bars, restaurants and stores with beach accessories) and narrow streets full of tricycles and scooters.
We spent the afternoon exploring the 'city' and checking the activities for the next day. We soon decided on the general plan: Monday safari island, Tuesday diving(me)/snorkeling (Timo), Wednesday we needed to change hotels to the fancy place Timo had booked with his colleague Oli who arrives that afternoon, Thursday island hopping, Friday leaving for Boracay. The general plan was quick, trying to organise it all not so much. We went from shop to shop and compared prices. For Monday we followed the advice to not book a tour, but rent a scooter and go by yourself. After all this planning we were hungry so we went to a nice looking barbecue place. We met a nice girl at the bar and enjoyed dinner tough the food was so so.
So here we are, Monday morning 7am, on our scooters, enjoying the beautiful ride. After 1.5 hours we realised we hadn't made it very far and started to go a bit faster. When we arrived after 2.5 hours at the top of the island we were very happy we made it. After such a long ride either you butt, back or neck (or all of it) really hurts. When we arrived we actually nearly didn't understand that we had, as we were looking for a boat jetty. Luckily an old man welcomed us at the end of the paved road and led us down through what seemed like a private garden to the jetty. In a tiny and slow boat he brought us across to Calauit, the safari island. There we paid a small entrance fee and got our private guide. We shortly discussed if we want to walk (in the heat) or take the jeep, but the decision was easy when she said there is only one jeep and it's out, we would need to wait for its return.
So here we go, or guide speaks good English and introduces us to the islands history. There are different stories how zebras and giraffes made it to a Philippine island. The common ground is that a former president had brought them from Africa and as this particular island fits quite well from the climate the animals survive. They are actually already in the second or third generation. The official story is that this president had saved the animals, the other one is that he had gotten them for the joy of his son. Well, the island somehow got forgotten and now is a little tourist attraction. It is weird to walk between giraffes and zebras in the Philippines. The highlight: you can feed the giraffes. And man, they are strong. They rip the branches out of your hand if you don't pay attention. And they have really weird long tongues with which they reach for the leaves. Well, it was a nice 1-2 hours attraction, which was cool and a bit weird at the same time.
On the way back to the town we made a stop at ocam ocam beach (or something like that). It was a beautiful lovely beach, which at first we had to ourselves. A lady who lived nearby asked us if we wanted lunch and we agreed. It wasn't particularly cheap, but to have food home cooked and delivered for a picknick on the beach was very cool. As other people arrived on the beach and saw us, the lady managed to sell her lunch package a couple more times and was very grateful to us trend setters. After that nice stop we made our way back to the city. We failed to find the waterfalls which are supposed to be on the way, but made a drink stop on the way to get a relief from the ride.
Back in town we decided to do one more touristic highlight: the hot springs. When we arrived we were not too excited. It was one big pool and one small one, and quite some people in there. But as we had made it that far we decided to go in. It actually was really nice, once it was dark, they light up the place nicely. Back in town we hurried to arrange the dive for the next day and return the scooters in time.
For dinner we went to a place that was well rated on trip advisor for being excellent food for a good price. The place was crowded and we didn't get a seat on the little rooftop. So we ordered and then waited. After a while we could move to the rooftop and waited again. Luckily they had one liter bottles of red horse beer. We met nice dive people up there, but still it was a bit too long of a wait. Around 10:30 we finally got our food, which really was good. We didn't make it to the bar afterwards anymore.
The next morning we went out for the dive. It was Timo, me and one more guy. We had been worried when we saw the day before small boats with 15 people on it. Not us, we got lucky. Looking back it probably was because of the quality of the dive school. The equipment was old and the guide didn't take things too serious. Well, for me it all started with a refresher. I had made my open water certification 10 years ago in Australia and then never went diving again. So on the way to the first dive spot, the dive master explained the equipment again, I practised assembling and we went through the hand signals. Arriving at the first spot I had to repeat the five basic skills like clearing your mask and sharing your air. We were right next to a little island so I could do this in shallow water. In the beginning I couldn't concentrate because a stupid little fish started biting me in the ankle - one of my few not covered body parts. When my instructor noticed we moved a bit away and it was ok. Seems like the little fella tried to protect its territory :-)
10 minutes later our little dive group was on the way to the first ship wreck, while Timo discovered the area snorkeling. It was a nice shallow dive, and although the view was not really great it was ok. And then we arrived at the ship wreck. Twice around and then through it. Wow. That was amazing and scary and cool at the same time. And on the way back we even saw a big cuttlefish. What a first dive. Unfortunately Timo wasn't feeling well and had only been on a short snorkeling round. He stayed on board for the rest of the trip, trying to survive. We drove out to the second spot and repeated the routine. Only that this dive was really deep. Actually deeper than I should have gone with my open water and few experience. After lunch we went to the third spot and repeated the dive. Overall I really enjoyed the three dives. The ship wrecks were pretty cool and I'm glad that after 10 years diving is still feasible and fun for me.
Back in town Timo went straight to bed with paracetamol to get the fever under control. I went to the local bar for the happy hour and met up with one of the Dutch guys I had met in Donsol. We went for dinner at a pizza place. Again we had to wait long even though we were lucky and only a couple of people in front of us in the queue. When we left the queue was 5 times as long! The pizza was good and we had a good talk, but both were a bit tired so went back to our hotels straight after dinner.
For the next day Timo and I had to move to the fancy hotel and had booked a kayak tour for the three of us. Well, although Timo felt better that was no option. So we moved to the new place and spent the late morning at the pool there. Soon after Oli arrived we all decided to skip the kayaking. We decided to do an easy alternative program. With a tricycle we drove to a beach close to town. It was a nice beach with not too many people around. We ordered a round of beer (coke for Timo) and someone insisted on a round of rum coke afterwards. We were shocked when the waiter brought a full bottle of rum and 3 cokes, but our 'complaints' just confused him. When we found out that all of it was just around 4 euros we stopped complaining and accepted our fate.
Before we went back to our hotel, which was a bit outside, we went for dinner in town. This time we were still early and got directly a table at a very good restaurant. Afterwards we went to my favorite bar for a last drink of the happy hour. The table next to us ordered a tower of rum coke for about 5 euro. It was a full liter of rum and 1.5 liter coke. We socialised with them and found out they are German as well, or well, Bavarians. After the second drink Timo and Oli left and I got talked into helping the guys with their second tower :-) It was a nice evening and a tricycle for 40 cents brought me save to our hotel around midnight.
The next day we had booked the big Island hopping tour. For just a couple euros more we had booked our private boot to the six spots we wanted to visit. It was basically a day of beautiful lagoons and lakes and some nice snorkeling. Highlight was the groups of non swimming Asians with their swim vests, that were pulled in a row by their guide, looking like a snake in the water. I got a bit annoyed by the amount of boats out there and the loud tourists, but overall it was a very nice day with amazing landscapes. Luckily Timo felt a lot better and could enjoy the trip as well.
The evening we had planned to go to the hot springs again, but after a day on the water we were all a bit tired and enjoyed the rooftop happy hour with our feet in the whirlpool. As we had a snack and some drinks up there we unfortunately were late again for dinner in town. After some annoyances about finding a good place, where we wouldn't have to wait too long, we got a table and again had very nice food. I went to bed straight after and Oli and Timo had an interesting experience at a bar close to our hotel.
The next day we left Coron and I had the feeling we've seen most of what's there. The five days have flown by and we have explored a good deal of the above and under water world of Coron. The flight to Boracay was a real adventure. We flew with a 10 seater of Juan Air directly from Coron to Boracay. Most flights go via Manila, but Timos efforts payed out and we were booked on this adventure. It was really great. I was sitting right behind the (female) pilot and we had great views on the way. Arriving on Boracay is an adventure as well. First you get off the plane and onto a bus. This bus leaves the airport and drives on a public road around the airport. There it re-enters and you get off at the arrivals hall. Grab your bag off the van and off you go. Then the craziness starts. A short tricycle trip to the harbour. Buy your ticket, your terminal fee, your environmental fee and then get in line. Asian people can be really rude in lines. I've learned now that old people somehow think they deserve it, so they may just take your bag off the conveyer at the security check and put theirs on. At one point Oli took the lead and huddled us through all the checks and lines. Our strategy: offer them all your tickets, they will find the ones they need at this point :-) Finally we were on the boat and in only 15 minutes we were across and on the actual island of Boracay. We checked in to our hotel where we met Uwe, the last member of the travel group. He had arrived already a day earlier and had enjoyed the island and a sailing trip. The afternoon we spent walking around the famous white beach. I was in some kind of shock. It was unbelievably crowded. One restaurant/bar next to the other. And so many people. The sand was amazing soft and white but I struggled to enjoy that with all the masses of people. On the water there was some kind of algae, which made it all green. Plus hundreds of sailing boats in the water, trying to get their share of the famous sunset sail hysteria.
We walked all the way back to our hotel, where luckily everything was a bit more quiet. After making use of the happy hour we went for one of Timo's favorite places. He had been on Boracay before and was really looking forward to sizzling beef at the reggea bar. It had heavily rained before and the beach was empty. When we arrived the owner of the bar even remembered Timo. And then the big shock: no pork today. We still had good food and after dinner went back to our hotel. Some last drinks for the boys at the bar, bed time for me.
The next morning Oli went for some martial arts training and the three of us went to explore the other side of the island: the kite beach. I loved it. Here the water is crowded and the beach is full of kites, but not many people. Uwe and me got some info about kite lessons and rental and then we went for lunch close by the beach. Oli joined us as well and I have to say it was very nice food. For the rest of the afternoon I proposed to go to a more quieter beach up north. Timo and Oli were not really interested. Uwe proposed to sail up there. Sounds good to me. So we got a boat, while the other two had a relaxed afternoon on the beach. The two sailors of our boat were cute boys who had fun with us. Uwe had convinced them to let him sail. I hadn't been on boats like this before. They are very thin and only one person can sit on the main frame. Then there are two logs on the sides which are to balance. On this connection there were nets where you can sit on. The boats can become really fast and you need to move in- and outwards on the net to keep the boat in balance. When we arrived on the north beach we went for a short swim and had a beer and then it was already time to get back so the boys wouldn't miss the opportunity to sell a sunrise trip. I really enjoyed the sailing, so far it had been my highlight of Boracay.
As it was Saturday evening, it was time to go out. We made our way up the white beach, with food and drinks on the way. There were some cool live music and fireshows, but nothing where we really felt like partying. At the end of the beach were the clubs but it was too early. 11:30 too early, what's wrong with you people? We made our way back down the beach with a stop here and there, but nothing attracted us to actually stay. So in the end we had a nice evening, but no party night on the party island.
Week three: Kite surfing beach Boracay and back to Donsol
On the next day it was already time to say goodbye! We had a relaxed morning and an early lunch (Sunday roast!) and then the boys already had to leave. I had three more nights on the island, which I intended to fill with kite surfing. I was still undecided in which hostel I wanted to stay, when I saw an offer on hostelworld for a recommended hostel for 2,45 per night. I immediately booked it and made my way over there after the boys had left. I had to search a bit for it and in the end it was exactly above the lunch place we were the day before. It turned out that the hostels booking system had crashed and that was why me and some others had gotten this great deal (around a quarter of the normal price). The afternoon I spent at the kite beach, which was just 3 minutes walk from my hostel. I didn't arrange anything yet, but just enjoyed the view and relaxed on the beach. For dinner I went back to the main beach as this side was completely dark and empty. I chose a place which looked relaxed and had nice live music. Only when I sat down I realised that the hobbit hole had only midget (or how you call it politically correct) waiters. A bit weird, but hey :-) After dinner I went back to the hostel for some more live music. It was acoustic night on the rooftop and I enjoyed it very much. Good music and a good book on a rooftop, life is good!
The next morning I started late again (the Philippines really made me lazy again) and went to the kite beach. I booked a refresher lesson for 3pm. As the tide was already coming back in I couldn't go any earlier. The time in between I spent reading my book on the beach. The lesson itself was a bit disappointing. I hated the walk out as you were walking on stones, grass and sea urchins, despite the protection by the shoes I was wearing I hated it. Then there were many kiters and in the area where I was obviously a lot of beginners. And the wind was not really strong. After a while I managed more or less, but it wasn't really fun.
We agreed to continue the next day where it was supposed to be better wind. Back on the beach we had a beer and I met some other kite surfers and instructors. We agreed to meet up again for dinner after a quick shower. Back at the hostel I met another guy who was also kite surfing and brought him along. We went to a party hostel, had good burgers and some drinks. Some played beer pong but I realised again that the right sequence is food - drinks - maybe food again. Definitely not the other way. In the end we decided to call it a night, well except for one lonely warrior who still went to white beach. Not me!
The next day I tried the kite surfing again, and it went a lot better. I could actually ride a bit. Until I had to stop because there was a beginner lying in the water. So I turned. Damn, another beginner. And I'm nearly on the shore again... so my teacher, who hadn't been of any help so far, took the kite, told me to walk back out and she'll bring me the kite. So I walked and then stood there in the water waiting. Where was she? Finally I saw my kite in the water, basically where I had left her. It looked like she got tangled up with another kite. I waited and waited. Then I saw her getting the kite out of the water and walking away. WTF? So I fought my way back to the shore and walked all the way to the kite school. There she was, completely pissed and she seemed to have completely forgotten about me. Some beginner had crashed into her, everything is a big mess and she needs to get the kite back and she lost the board... Great. I was cold from all the standing in the water and told her that I need a break. After lunch I decided not to go out anymore. Although the wind was good, it was still so crowded and I didn't feel I am learning anything from my teacher. So I enjoyed hanging out on the beach, reading my book and chatting with the people.
Originally the whole group wanted to go for dinner together. But after me and the guy from the hostel had a shower they told us that they are still at the kite place drinking. So we went to white beach for dinner and afterwards went to see them again. They were incredibly drunk and we were not. No chance of getting to that point before they pass out. We had one game of Fußball with them (and yes, they struggled) and then said goodbye.
The next morning it was time to leave Boracay. The island sent me off with a huge rainstorm with streets being flooded and me being really glad when my tricycle arrived at the ferry jetty. Again tickets, fees and trying to find your way on a boat. I couldn't belief it, the moment I boarded the boat, the sun was shining again. This time I had a two hour bus ride as I had taken the cheaper airport. My flight got delayed again, but in the end I made it safe back to Manila. Ronnie and I had planned a relaxed afternoon and dinner. But with my delay and his unexpected work field trip we just made it to meet up at the bus station, where I got my ticket and a quick dinner in the area. Before I had picked up my big bag at Ronnie's place, I really need to get rid of stuff. I had enjoyed the last two weeks with only hand luggage a lot. Then it was time to say goodbye and for me another night bus trip to Donsol. Same same but different :-) The next morning I'm at Legazpi bus terminal and this time I waited more than two hours for the bus to fill. At least again I met really nice people there, this time a German couple. We went together to the Woodland Beach Resort, where the whole staff recognised me and were super happy that I came back. So cute and friendly people! Me and the girl still tried to get on a whale shark watching boat, but there was no one to share and we didn't want to pay the whole boat ourselves. So back to the hostel and relax at the pool. The evening we all went to bed early as they were still jetlagged and I wanted to go on a boat at 7 am. This time it went well, the whole thing is well organised and you will be put together with other people to fill the boat. I met really nice people from Sweden and Canada on my boat, most of them staying at the same hostel. I was really excited. The last days there were whaleshark sightings so this time it had to work out for me. And it did. It was a little bit of craziness, but still very cool. There is one whaleshark and about 15 boats circling around it. You sit on your boat in a row, all six of us with the snorkels and fins on and when your guide says jump, you jump trying not to fall on each other. So there already the chaos starts. Then your guide shouts at you to follow him and you swim towards the whaleshark. I was the first of the group right next to the guide and there it suddenly was. I was freaking out a little bit because suddenly there is this huge fish right in front/under you. And then the real chaos starts. While your group swam towards the whaleshark, other groups were still swimming with it. So until you noticed you should turn around and swim with it you get hit by people and kicked with fins and all while you are still processing that you are actually right next to a giant fish. After a bit you lost the whaleshark or only saw bubbles from people's fins, so you stop and let the boat pick you up. Then you get back in line of the boats and repeat. We've done that around 4-5 times until the whaleshark had enough of us and swam deep down. Even though there are maximum three or four groups with the whaleshark in the water at one time, it sometimes really felt like a crowd that was in the middle of a fight. So I returned to land with a bit of a 'what did just happen?' feeling. Don't get me wrong, it was great, just a bit crazy as well. After all that excitement I again relaxed the afternoon at the pool. I was chatting with a guide at Mount Mayon as I was considering to try the hike up the volcano as well. He answered me that it is possible now (officially) to go up to camp two, but the crater is still forbidden. So I decided to take it easy on my last two days in the Philippines and just stay at this beautiful resort. The evening I had dinner with the Swedish girls from the boat, when a guy asked around if we would be interested in a more private encounter with the whalesharks. A lot of divers going to manta bowl have encounters with whalesharks. So they went the day before with a dive school for snorkeling with the whalesharks out at manta bowl. Usually this is not offered as you need to be a good swimmer out there due to the current. Anyways, they wanted to go again and tried to get 6-8 people together to share the costs of the boat. I immediately said yes. Unfortunately it meant getting up at 6am again, as it takes roughly two hours to get out to manta bowl. I enjoyed the boat ride, partially sleeping through it and enjoyed the company. We ended up being 7 people: two Norwegians who had organised it all, a Dutch couple, the Canadian guy from the day before, me and another German girl. When we arrived at manta bowl it didn't take long until we had the first whaleshark sighting. The drill was the same as the day before: get your gear on, sit all in a row on one side of the boat and when the guide yells JUMP, you jump. Unfortunately the whaleshark was a bit shy and went down when we jumped in, so I may have seen some dots or just imagined it. Back on the boat we were driving around for a bit until the next shout: butanding! Whaleshark in Filipino. We jumped in and there he was. And so close! This one definitely was not shy. He even followed us. At some points he was a bit too close in my opinion and I tried to get some distance. Just when I had my head above water trying to catch my breath and calming down a bit, the guy next to me says in a very calm way: wow he's right next to you. Aaah! It really seemed like the whaleshark enjoyed to play with us. Our guide had a secret trick, he was hitting bubbles towards his mouth and he liked it. At one point he even stood upright in the water. Can you imagine, a 8m big fish "standing" next to you under water? It was beautiful, we had the time and space to be close to him and watch him. After a while he started to swim away, but in the beginning so slowly that we could follow a bit. Wow. Back on the boat we all couldn't really believe what just had happened. This definitely was a once in a lifetime experience. We had a private encounter in the wild with the biggest fish there is, for about 20 to 30 minutes. After lunch the crew started searching for another whaleshark but we didn't have another encounter. They apologised and we didn't know what for, this was an unbelievably amazing experience.
Back at the hostel everyone was jealous. Usually the divers have the best encounters, but none of them came even close to something that amazing. This was a great finale for my time in the Philippines. The next day I chilled at the pool of the hostel and then made my way to the airport. A flight to Manila and then directly on to Taipei, Taiwan.
Everyone who made it this far, congratulations. This really became a long blog. Looking back at my time in the Philippines, I have mixed feelings. On my hate list are: Manila traffic, mass&party tourism in boracay and the Internet connection. On the love list: beautiful people and nature above and under water. The food is somewhere in between, probably still on my not so good list, although I leave with a lot better impression than last time due to Ronnie's efforts :-) If I would go again I would avoid the standard places and enjoy more the beautiful hidden gems of the Philippines.
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